Jacket construction



y 4, 1943- M. DAVIDOW 2,318,295 JACKET CONSTRUCTION Filed Nov. 7, 1942 Y 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 was 12 INVENTOR. 9104mm Baa/100w,

y 1943- M. DAVVIPOW 2,318,295

JACKET CONSTRUCTION Filed Nov, 7, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

/ 6' $3; QIZWZvX/WW Damian w Patented May 4, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE JACKET CONSTRUCTION Melville Davidow, New York, N. Y. j

Application November 7, 1942, Serial No. 464,875 I I (01. 2-93) I 3 Claims.

The present invention relates to improvements in wearing apparel and has reference more particularly to an improved jacket construction.

At the present time, it is imperative to save as much material as possible in the making of jackets, and ladies jackets that form a part of a sport suit or ensemble as a rule employ a facing on the underneath side of the front part of the jacket, as well as on the revers or lapel portions and the collar in order to give more body to these portions of the jacket.

It is, therefore, one of the important objects of the invention to so construct a jacket, as to eliminate the usual facing and at the same time afford the necessary support for maintaining the shape of the front of the jacket, as Well as its levers and collar and still retain the softness and graceful appearance of the garment.

, Another and important object residesin the novel method of finishing the edge portions of the front of the jacket, as well as the revers. and collar sothat no facing material is necessary for these particular portions of the jacket, thus conserving upon the material used in the manufacture of ladies jackets. "Afurther objectfresides in forming flat hand felled buttonholes so that the facing usually associated with the underside of thematerial around the buttonholes is eliminated and this without presenting an unsightly appearance on the underside of the garment around the buttonholes. J

Otherobjects and advantages'will become apparent from the following description, when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings, wherein like reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Figure 1 is a fragmentary front elevation of one side of a ladies jacket before the edges having been turned back and stitched but .showing the notch at the base of the revers, the revers and collar portions not being folded down;

Figure 2 is a similar View showing the turned back and stitched edges of the revers and collar;

Figure 3 is an elevational view of one front edge of the jacket looking at its underside and showing the stitching along the turned back edge as well as the hand tailored buttonholes;

Figure 4 is a View similar to Figure 1, showing the turned back edge portions of the jacket reinforced by stitching, with the buttonholes also reinforced;

the jacket with the turned back edges stitched and the revers and collar folded down; I,

Figure 6 is a transverse section taken approxi' mately on the line 68 of Figure 4; Figure 7 is a sectional view taken on the line 1-1 of Figure 4; Figure 8 is a similar section taken on the line 88 of Figure 4; j Figure 9 is an enlarged fragmentary view showing one of the reinforced buttonholes;.

Figure 10 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line Iii-I0 of Figure 9, and

and a notch 3 is formed in this vertical front.

edge, at the base or lower end of the revers or lapel portion 4, for a purpose to be presently described. 1

The collar which is attached to the upp r edge of the body portion of the jacket is designated at 5 and the buttonholes are shown atfi.

Initially, the notch 3 is formed in thej'vertical front edge at the particular point indicated be: fore the material along the front edges of the jacket, as well as at thefree edges of the revers and collar, is folded back and stitched. This notch permits the revers and collar portions to be folded back on the right side of the jacket; As is more clearly shown in Figures 3 and 8, the free edge portion 1 of the front of the jacket is turned back upon the underside of the material from the notch 3 to the bottom edge of the body of the jacket and rows of stitching 8 extend completely through the forward edge por-' tion 2 and its turned back face edge portion 1. The width of the turned back portion I is comparatively narrow.

The free edge portion 9 of the revers is folded over on the right side of the material comprising the body of the jacket so that when the revers is turned back, this folded over edge portion 9 will be disposed on the underside of the revers, as clearly shown in Figure 5. Rows of stitching Ill extend through the free edge portion of the revers and its folded over free edge portion 9, as clearly shown in Figures 2, 4, 5 and 7, respectively.

In a similar manner the outer free edge portion I I of the collar 5 is folded over on the right side of the material of the body of the jacket,

Figure 5 shows the front right side portion of so that when the collar is turned down, the folded over edge portion H will be disposed on the underside of the collar as also shown in Figure 5 of the drawings. Rows of stitching l2 extend through the outer edge portion of the collar and its folded over free edge portion II, as shown in Figures 2, 4, 5, and 6.

The adjacent edge portions of the front of the jacket and the collar have their respective free edges folded back upon themselves, as indicated at [3 and f4 and stitched thereto as .at -15 and I6, respectively. Suitable stitching H secures the lower edge portion of the collar to the upper edge of the front of the jacket, as shown very clearly in Figure 6.

While it will be observed that the folded over edge portion 7 is disposed on the opposite side or face of the material to that on which the folded over edge portions 9 and H are disposed, nevertheless, when the stitching operation takes place, all of the folded over outer edge portions of the front, revers and collar may be simultaneously stitched in one operation.

After the stitching operation has been completed, the revers and collar are folded down as indicated in Figure 5. The relatively narrow and stitched folded over edge portions at the front, revers and collar will give the necessary support for these portions of the jacket, yet retain the soft looseness of appearance of the garment and at the same time, the use of the customary facing materials is eliminated.

Attention is now directed to Figures -3, 9, 10

and 11 with reference to the improved buttonhole consruction also forming a salient part of the present invention.

The edges of each buttonhole 6 are turned back against the underside face of the front of the jacket as indicated at '18. A slitted facing strip of material l9 that is of the same material as that used in the body of the jacket is disposed against the underside of the front portion of the jacket around each buttonhole.

This facing strip H! has its edge portions folded back upon itself as indicated at 20 and stitching 2| extends through the front of the jacket and each facing strip around each buttonhole.. In this manner, a tailored or hand-felled buttonhole is formed. The buttonholes will thus produce a fiat .finish on the underneath side and the use of facing material around the buttonholes will also be obviated. v

A garment constructed in the foregoing manner will save considerable material and at the same time possess all the characteristic present where the facing material is employed.

While I have shown the preferred embodiment of .my invention, it is to be understood that various changes may be resorted to without departing from the spirit of the invention and the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim is:

1. A jacket construction comprising front, revers and collar portions, the free edge portion of the front being folded back and secured to the underneath face of the front portion, the free edge portions of the revers and collar being folded back and secured thereto for disposition on the same side as the outer face of the front portion, said folded over portions of the revers and collar being disposed underneath and concealed from view when said revers and collar portions are turned down in the normal use of the jacket.

2. A jacket construction comprising front, revers and collar portions, said revers portion being integral with the front portion, the vertical front edge of said front portion having an inwardly extending notch formed therein at the base of the revers, the free edge portion of said vertical front edge below the notch being folded back and secured to the underneath face of the front .portion, the outer free edge portions of the revers and collar portions being folded back and secured thereto for disposition on the .said side as the outer face of the front portion of the jacket, said last mentioned folded over edge portions being disposed underneath and concealed from view when the revers and collar portions are turned down in the normal use of the jacket.

3. A jacket construction comprising front, revers and collar portions, said revers portion being integral with the front portion, the vertical front edge of said front portion having an inwardly extending notch formed therein at the base of the revers, the free edge portion of said vertical front edge below the .notch being folded said last mentioned folded over edge portions being disposed underneath and concealed from view when the revers and collar portions are turned down in the normal use of the jacket, the upp r edge portion of the front being folded over and secured to the outer face thereof, the complementary lower edge of the collar being folded over and secured thereto for disposition on the same face 10f the collar portion as the foldedover outer edge portion of .the .collar, the adjacent edges of the front and collar portions being sov cured together.

MELVIILE DAVIDOW. 

